The gritty and photogenic nature of Osaka

Hello again from Tokyo, although that said, this month’s newsletter is solely about the country’s second city, Osaka.

On a visit last month to conduct photowalks, as well as enjoy a few days shooting for myself, I was reminded once again how much at home I feel in the old and dated areas I always stay in and frequent.

Familiar and yet really quite different

The everyday Japan I’m familiar with is still there in Osaka, and yet at the same time, it also feels quite different. A look and vibe that is truly distinct. On top of that, the people I encounter are, on the whole, far more open and friendly when compared to their Tokyo counterparts.

An old market area like no other

It’s hard to accurately describe Tsuruhashi market, but the best I can come up with is a gloriously heady mix of Tokyo’s now demolished Tsukiji fish market, and the capital’s old, former black market neighbourhood of Ueno. A wonderful combination that for me at least makes it a location to marvel at and thoroughly enjoy.

Mostly under cover, the lighting only adds to the atmosphere, with a real grittiness to much of the area. Then there’s the location’s post-war beginnings that are there for all to see in the old signs and dated facades.

Tsuruhashi’s labyrinthian nature means it’s easy to get lost, but that’s a similarity big part of the experience, as there is always something to appreciate round the next corner. All of which make for a down to earth sensory overload in the best possible way.

The lost in time world of Nishinari ward

One of the poorest neighbourhoods in Japan, and home to a large day labouring population, Nishinari ward in some parts is a genuinely stark reminder that just like so many other countries, extreme poverty is a problem Japan has also failed to deal with.

However, away from the main day labouring area, the dated shopping arcades and low rise streets have more of a down at heel, distinctly blue collar vibe. Long, covered and shuttered locations where time has mostly stood still, making them similar to some of my favourite old area’s in Tokyo, and throughout Japan in general.

Nishinari though has an appearance all its own. It’s also on a much bigger scale, allowing for days of wandering and exploration. Needless to say just like the capital, it is changing, with old buildings being pulled down and new ones popping up, but the pace is mercifully slower, with far more of the past remaining intact.

Openness, honesty and a distinct lack of pretence

Along with the visual differences, the atmosphere of the area also has a unique feel, most of which is down to its inhabitants. Many of the them don’t have a lot, but their openness, along with a complete lack of pretence, makes for a refreshing change when compared to public life in the capital. As such, people are far more ready with a smile, and the same goes for impromptu conversations and general greetings. Elements that when put together mean I always enjoy visiting, and in all honesty, I never really want to leave when it’s time to return to Tokyo.

See this side of Osaka with your own eyes

Hopefully the photos do at least some justice to what I’ve written. Sights are one thing, but an area’s atmosphere is a trickier beast to capture. Still, if you’d like to spend a few days seeing and photographing Osaka on a Photowalk Tour, my booking info page for Tokyo doubles up for Osaka as well, and there’s a write-up and review here.

All of which wraps up this month’s offering. I hope these newsletters are proving interesting, and if you have anything in particular you’d like me to cover, please do let me know.

Speak to you in December.

Cheers

Lee